🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.