Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
